Bordeaux Comes to China

According to a story in today's Financial Times, the People's Republic of China is now the world's leading importer of Bordeaux wines. The story notes that the Chinese are on something of a learning curve with wine appreciation. It also notes they are quick studies, although some of the food and wine pairings favored in China are nearly as bizarre as those Westerners make in New York's Asian restaurants.

The wine auction houses are following the money. Recently, the auctioneer's hammer has gone down in Hong Kong for exquisite French wines once the exclusive province of the Caucasian elite. Today's cost per case could pay for a year's tuition at an Ivy League institution.

Unfortunately, the story interviewed wine industry savants rather than the Chinese consumers who just have to have a bottle of Chateau Hooboy. What makes wine a beverage of choice in a society lacking any connection to the grape? Astringent Scotch or robust beer is closer to the yin-yang spirit of Chinese cooking's flavors and textures. Wine, at least in the Old World manner, served to harmonize food produced near the vineyards where the grapes grew. That perspective seems distant from the Chinese approach to cuisine.

Alcoholic beverages, however, have their cycles in which they're in or out of fashion. Subtle, sophisticated sherries, for instance, were out of favor for years, while primitive, potent grappas were lauded and consumed with equal parts enthusiasm and ignorance. Right now, Bordeaux is enjoying its place in the bright, blinding Chinese sun. I'm all for it: I say get that Chinese wealth into circulation. I'll even raise a toast to the thought -- with a beer brewed in Pennsylvania.

PS. The Bordeaux poster was created in 1937 by French Art Deco poster artist -- and Bordeaux resident -- Jean Dupasa. The ducks are timeless.